Frequently asked questions about interior and exterior doors

ENTRY DOORS

ENTRY DOORS

How do I finish and maintain the finish on my exterior doors?
A complete set of instructions on how to finish and maintain your exterior doors can be found on our Finishing, Care & Maintenance
page. Please make sure to choose the appropriate instructions for the specific door that you have purchased.

I want to replace my existing entry door. What measurements do I need to take to ensure that I order a door that will fit my opening?
There are two ways to replace your entry door. You can replace just the door panel, or slab, or the entire prehung (including door frame) unit.
For the slab only, measure the height and width on the door you are replacing – do not measure sweep (weather seal) on the bottom of the door. If you wish to have the door prepped for hinges, lockset and deadbolt you will need to supply your retailer with the following information:
Distance from the top of the door to the top of the first hinge,
Distance from the top of the door to the top of the second hinge,
Distance from the top of the door to the top of the third hinge,
Distance from the top of the door to the top of the fourth hinge (for 96” doors),
The size of hinge you are using (width and height with hinge open),
Distance from the top of the door to the center of the deadbolt,
Distance from the top of the door to the center of the lockset,
Distance from the edge of the door to the center of the deadbolt and from the edge of the door to the center of the lockset. They should be the same.
For the entire prehung unit, measure the height and width of your entire door opening, stud to stud, floor to header – called the rough opening. To measure accurately, you might have to remove some interior casing (moulding) to see the backside of the door frame. Typically, no more than a one inch of extra space is desired between the actual (outside to outside) door unit dimension and the rough opening, length and width. Shimming, blocking or additional framing may be required in the opening to accommodate the new door unit. Please consult your Masonite Dealer for additional help

Can I use a storm door in front of my entry door?
Storm doors can be used, but should NOT be used in conjunction with doors painted or stained with dark colors or in areas of high heat or intense sun exposure. We strongly recommend using a vented storm door which allows the trapped heat to escape, prolonging the life and performance of your door. Improper storm door applications can void the warranty on your entry door.

Where can I see the available glass options for my entry door?
You can visit our manufacturers websites to see full glass options.

Can I paint the plastic lite frame on my steel or fiberglass entry door?
Yes. If your fiberglass door is textured (designed for staining), your lite frame is more than likely tan in color and requires staining/top-coating or painting to avoid voiding the warranty. If your frame is our high-performance Specialty™ white frame – typically used with smooth fiberglass or steel doors – then painting is not required. However, the frame is paintable if you choose to add color. To paint a white frame closely, follow these instructions: 1) – lightly sand the surface with a fine abrasive pad. 2) Wipe the surface clean with a lint free cloth and denatured alcohol to remove dust and residual contaminants. 3) Apply a bonding primer for use over glossy surfaces and plastic then use a high quality exterior paint to finish the frame – follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions.

How to determine door swing direction ?
Determining handing for door hardware is different than determining handing for carpentry ( ordering and hanging doors ). If you follow the standard carpentry rules for handing door hardware, instead of following the diagram below, there is good chance you may end up with lock that is handed incorrectly. Please refer to the diagram below and if you have any questions, call Customer service at 630.758.1740

INTERIOR DOORS

What is the finished opening required for a Molded Panel Series hollow core bifold door?
The finished opening width for a bifold is the same as the (nominal) width of the bifold you purchase. The finished opening height of a bifold is the actual (nominal) length of the door plus 1¾”. Bifold door heights have been under-cut by 1”. So the height of an 80” (nominal) door is actually 79”. The actual height of a 78” door is 77”. For example, if you bought a 36” x 80” bifold, the finished opening would need to be 36” x 80 ¾”.

Is the finished opening for a solid core bifold door the same as a hollow core door?
Yes, the finished opening will remain 80-3/4”. The bifold length will be adjusted at our manufacturing plant to accommodate a different sized, heavy duty track.

How much can I trim off my passage door?
For Molded Panel and Flush doors, you can trim 1/8” off each edge (sides, top and bottom) without affecting your warranty. For Wood Panel, MDF and French doors, you can trim ¼” off each side and 1” off the bottom of the door without affecting your warranty. No trimming is allowed off of the top rail.

How much can I trim off my bifold door?
Any trimming of your bifold doors will void the warranty.

The instructions do not tell me which screws are used where when installing the 2-Panel bifold door?
There are a number of different screws for installing your hollow core bifolds. There should be five flat head screws that are to be used for the track. You will have three short flat head screws that are to be used for the aligner. There are two round head screws with blunt tips, in differing lengths that are for your door knob. Please use the appropriate length screw for the proper thickness of your door. This will leave three round head screws one long and two short. The longer screw is for the floor part of the jamb bracket and the 2 shorter ones are for the wall part of the jamb bracket.

Are Wood Panel doors solid wood? If not, how are they constructed and from what materials?
Wood Panel doors have a solid construction. However, they are engineered from various materials for best performance. For example, the panels are typically made from MDF (medium density fiberboard) with wood veneer laminated to the outside surface. Stiles (vertical portions) and rails (horizontal) typically feature wood veneers laminated to edge-glued wood substrates.

Do interior doors contain any formaldehyde?
Formaldehyde is naturally present in all wood-based products. So, the question to ask… “Is there is added formaldehyde in a product?” Wood itself, generally does not have added formaldehyde. It’s typically composite substrates – MDF (medium density fiberboard), door facings, etc. – that are questioned usually due to resins and adhesives. Masonite’s Molded Panel door facings – a fiberboard product – contain resin and wax to adhere and consolidate the wood fiber. The resin and wax contain very small levels of free formaldehyde, which are below regulatory reporting levels.
These limits are placed on formaldehyde exposure for workers by OSHA. Our interior Molded doors are made from engineered wood components that are below the Permissible Exposure Levels for workers while manufacturing the doors according to OSHA Formaldehyde Standard 29CFR 1910.1048

Do you sell fire-rated doors? If so, how do I determine the fire rating on the door?
Craftwood Inc. sells a wide variety of 1-3/4” thick interior doors that are available with a 20-minute fire rating. Several interior doors are also available with a fire rating of 45-, 60- or 90-minutes in duration. Please consult with us and/or building official to ensure that the configuration you have chosen will meet your specific fire door application.
All doors that are fire-rated will have a Warnock-Hersey™ label affixed to the hinge side of the door stating the specific fire rating. Please check with us for product availability. Typically, fire doors need to be special ordered. If you cannot find a product that meets your requirements, please call us at 1.630.758.1740.

I have put the pivots for my bifold door in the wrong end of the door. How do I remove the pivots?
Use a flat head screwdriver or flat utility knife and gently pry up around the flange of the pivot going all the way around the flange. Do not pry up in just one location or you’ll break the plastic flange. Once you have pried up enough to expose some of the plastic sleeve, gently grab with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently rock the sleeve pulling up at the same time. If the pivot breaks, a replacement can be purchased at most home centers or hardware stores.